onsdag 12. mars 2014

Fitting issues (short back?)

I've been following this blog on Bloglovin, Sew Me Love by Neeno, because she makes some nice dresses. Little did I know that this would come in very handy!
One of the reasons I started sewing my own dresses, is that I am short, especially my back is short, so store-bought dresses are mostly too long for me. Some of them can be shortened at the bottom, but mostly they are too long in the back, and that can be harder to fix in a way that looks neat.

The same issue has appeared when I make my own dresses - a heap of excess fabric bulging in the back, or the waistline dropping too low in the back.
For my Onion 2035 pattern (these dresses 12, 3) I have taken off 4 cm at the centre back, graded out to 0 at the side seams.
For my Onion 2045 (1, 2) the fix isn't as obvious to me, as the dress doesn't have a horisontal seam in the back.
And for my latest dress (not on the blog yet...), I also ended up taking out a lot at the centre back, at the waist seam.

Now, following Neeno in her attempts to make a perfect Anna-dress, I realised I was not the only one with this issue (surprise), only she went about fixing it in a slightly more professional manner - researching the subject online, in stead of doing the homemade "pinch and pin".
I made a mental note of her blogposts (multiple) on the issue, and after making a muslin of the bodice for my Anna-dress, having far too much fabric in the back, I went back to her blog and re-read her posts and her useful links.

So last night, I followed the instructions on how to take out a wedge at the centre back, and the muslin fit so much better! I only did this directly on my muslin, not on the pattern, to test it, so I'll have to transfer it to my pattern once I'm satisfied with the length and width of my wedge.
Sadly I don't have any photos to illustrate this (yet), as I didn't manage to photograph my own back properly...

I didn't find it right now, but there was also a link to a site explaining how to adjust the back on garments with or without back seam(s). I think that will be very useful to me!

Thanks for doing the research for me, Neeno!

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